چهارشنبه 28 اسفند 1392
It's not often you see a catwalk show and go "hey, that looks totes comfortable" but at the opening night of this year's Melbourne Fashion Festival something bigger (than Megan Gale's growing baby bump) was at play.
You see, last week, outgoing David Jones executive Paul Zahra revoked his resignation after a new chairman, Gordon Cairns, was installed after the old chairman, Peter Mason, stepped down after being caught up in a tangled web of inappropriate share trading, which is kind of frowned upon and just a little illegal. The Wolf of Castlereagh Street if you will.
Anyway, Zahra, who resigned last year, has since agreed to stay and is not "needing a break" from the "relentless hours" kept by a CEO, and the reason for his return is his like-minded chairman Cairns.
The two are avid yogis who met five years ago at a Buddhist retreat and Monday night's show at Docklands, featuring the latest and on sale looks from the DJs stable of designers were surprisingly relaxed in attitude. There was even a bum bag and only a bloke, with a lust for international travel and too much cash to stash would ever want nay, need to wear a bum bag. Based on this evidence, did a suit style the show and was Zahra and Cairn's hippy luxe bromance the inspiration?
From Banjo and Matilda's slouchy denim to bassike's grey marle oversized jackets and Camilla's free flowing kaftan ensembles, the whole parade - which was so long even front rower Rachael Finch got bored and took to reading emails by the 10th exit - was a nice homage to harmonious easy living and championed relaxed, man style silhouettes that a lady could either a). Eat Grill'd in comfortably or b). Perform some downward dog whilst wearing.
And it wasn't just on the runway, even the celebrity guests and models, including super foxes Montana Cox and face of the retailer Jessica Gomes, were jovial and laugh-a-minute front of house and backstage.
جمعه 23 اسفند 1392
Now that awards season is over and all of the prestigious statues have been doled out, the unsung heroes behind the stars can get some shine of their own. At Soho House in Los Angeles yesterday, The Hollywood Reporter hosted a lunch celebrating its annual Power Stylists issue.
Topping the list of honorees are Elizabeth Stewart, who dressed Cate Blanchett, Sandra Bullock, and Julia Roberts for their countless appearances; Petra Flannery, the mastermind behind Amy Adams’ American Hustle promotional parade; and newbie Micaela Erlanger, who is featured on the cover of the issue alongside clients Michelle Dockery and Lupita Nyong’o.
“It’s really exciting to know that you can have this kind of impact, that you can help shape and coif someone’s image and brand and know that what you’re doing really is powerful beyond just picking out a pretty dress,” Erlanger enthused, calling her work with Nyong’o a true collaboration.
At the luncheon, stars and their stylists arrived in pairs: Olivia Munn with Erlanger, Ashley Greene with Cristina Ehrlich, and Bella Heathcote with Penny Lovell. After Jimmy Choo creative director Sandra Choi addressed guests, Hollywood Reporter writer Merle Ginsberg asked the actresses in the crowd what it felt like to be a plus one. Laughter ensued.
As Lizzy Caplan, stylist Tara Swennen, and Evan Rachel Wood all discussed awards season dressing, Elle Fanning broke down her kindred connection with stylist Samantha McMillen, who also styles her sister, Dakota. “I’m always texting her looks,” Fanning said, referring to the files of Style runway images she admits to keeping. And as was echoed by celebs and their stylists throughout the lunch, each look is a team effort. “The details are very important,” she said. “Samantha always makes sure to bring funny socks and things like that to make it me.”
Now that fashion month has finally finished, you likely appreciate the little things in life a lot more—you know, opening your door without a hotel room key and storing clothes in your own dresser for a while. Returning to su casa is also that much more enjoyable when your surroundings have a welcoming air, no? That’s why we’d like to direct your attention to the fine interior fragrances of Rue de Marli. Inspired by the ancient art of master herbalists, the Montreal-based apothecary picks organic plants and herbs at their peak moment of harvest, to fully capture all their aromatic benefits, and then uses those ingredients as the basis for its well-edited line of skin- and bath-care. Its Scented Wax Tablets are particularly noteworthy. Crafted with a centuries-old technique, each slab is handmade with pure, organic soy wax and natural botanicals, and comes in two fragrant varieties: Bois Precieux, which combines pine, Italian cypress, and red sandalwood; and Citron de Vigne, featuring lemon, sweet orange, Sicilian mandarin, and grape-seed oil. The pretty ribbon tie allows you to hang the tablet on the doorknob to your bedroom—or any room, for that matter—to release its delicate perfume around you. And unlike a candle, you can leave this unattended and not worry about burning down the house. Conveniently, they’re sold in sets of two—did we mention they’re also brilliant tucked inside a suitcase? Mental note for when you travel next.
جمعه 16 اسفند 1392
Anyone who has experienced a facial with Isabelle Bellis firsthand would likely agree that it’s a transformative experience. And a lengthy one, at that—her signature facial treatments, which incorporate plenty of circulation-stimulating massage, usually hover around the two-hour mark. Even her extractions somehow don’t seem as painful an ordeal. And Bellis herself is always full of helpful skincare advice, so we couldn’t think of anyone better to offer up some guidance on how our skin can best, ahem, weather the extreme changes in temperature that seem par for the course this winter. Here, five tips to abide by.
WASH WITH CARE
“The skin needs to be cleaned in a more gentle way during the winter. As the skin of the face and neck get finer, it is more vulnerable to the cold weather and the heat in our homes. It’s vital to retain the good elements that the skin produces in order to protect the complexion. An aggressive foaming gel can damage and dry the skin, so even if one has oily skin, it is better to clean with a mild formula in order to keep the delicate skin fabric intact. A milky cleanser and toner or an extremely gentle foam cleanser is preferred.”
SHELF THE ACIDS
“Limit the amount of acidic products and treatments the face and neck are exposed to. Those who have fragile skin should opt to use these kinds of products in the spring or fall instead.”
WATCH YOUR WATER
“Try to limit the use of tap water on your face. If you use product that needs to be rinsed off with water, I recommend finishing with a spray of thermal water—I prefer the La Roche-Posay Spray Thermal for its beneficial properties and wonderful dispersion—to rid the skin of hard elements like chlorine, calcareous deposits, etc. We also have a tendency to take longer and warmer showers in the winter, and it’s important to avoid directing too much of the shower’s spray directly on the décolletage, as it is a very sensitive area where capillaries can react easily. Be sure to dry your body in a gentle way and not to rub with your towel. If you take a bath, apply oil to your body before you soak or add a few drops of oil to your tub.”
WARM UP YOUR DIET
“Avoid too much raw food, as it has a tendency to create dryness in the system that shows up on the skin. Since the body needs more energy to break it down, you may feel tired and less energetic. If you juice, make sure you have warm, balanced, healthy meals to compensate.”
“Oil is for any age and any type of skin, from combination to extremely dry. Apply an oil-based product to create an extra barrier and protect the capillaries from the cold. L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect Oil is fantastic for winter. It absorbs rapidly without leaving skin greasy. And if you’re very dry, top it with a moisturizing cream for extra protection and nourishment.”
Instagram has dubbed Paris fashion week #PaRih. Why? Because while trotting from one show to the next, the pop sensation has completely stolen the style spotlight. That sophisticated gray look she wore to Lanvin? That sheer fishnet number she rocked post-Balmain? The cherry red fur she donned at Dior? We’ll go so far as to say she’s been flawless through and through. Team Style favorite outfit, however, was the one she sported to Comme des Garçons. It was a mash-up of wares by three emerging talents: Adam Selman (her River Island co-designer), Melitta Baumeister, and Hyein Seo. The latter two were featured in the VFiles Made Fashion show in February, and Riri’s choice to wear Baumeister’s oversize pleather jacket and Seo’s faux-fur “Fear” stole will no doubt help catapult these up-and-comers to stardom. “I think it was our best look of the week,” Rihanna’s stylist, Mel Ottenberg, told. “Melitta’s coat was one of the greatest coats of the season, even if a lot of people haven’t heard of her yet. That whole collection blew my mind. And Hyein Seo; I was flipping through Style, showed Rihanna pictures, and she loved it. She was totally amazed and wanted to wear the fur with a look from Adam [Selman]‘s collection.”
Naturally, the designers are over the moon about bad gal Riri scooping up their Fall ’14 styles. “It’s a reassurance that you’re doing something that people are reacting to,” said Baumeister, who has also dressed Lady Gaga. “And Rihanna is such a great star to wear it. It really proves that the collection is relevant to what’s going on right now.”
VFiles founder and CEO Julie Anne Quay shared Baumeister’s excitement—after all, she helped select Baumeister and Seo for the fashion platform’s Fall runway romp. “Rihanna wearing those designers shows that she believes in the next generation and the future of fashion,” Quay said. “And the fact that she would go to a Comme des Garçons show in that, where everyone around her is wearing Comme or Chanel, I mean, that’s a statement.”
When asked if that statement was intentional, Ottenberg offered, “When there’s a great moment to chose something unknown, it makes us really happy for the designer. It’s fun to do something that not everybody else is doing. Comme des Garçons is a huge supporter of young talent, and it felt right. It was one of those chances to do whatever we wanted.”
As for the future plans of Riri’s rising stars, Selman is storming the fashion sphere after his breakout sophomore presentation last month; Seo is wrapping up her master’s degree at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp; and Baumeister is hoping to hold her debut solo show next New York fashion week. “I hope it will be possible. I’m just going to have to make it happen somehow,” said the Parsons M.A. fashion grad. We have a feeling that she’ll persevere.
Chanel did a two-step into Dallas for a fabulous Texan romp for their Metiers d’Art 2013/2014 presentation.
DALLAS? Really? That was probably on the mind of most people when they heard where Chanel was presenting its Metiers d’Art (Pre-Fall) collection.
Metiers d’Art is always highly anticipated, as the collection is made by artisans and craftsmen under Chanel’s Paraffection company (set up to preserve artisan workshops) – Massaro (shoemaker), Maison Lesage (couture embroiders), Lemarié (feathers), Desrues (buttons), Guillet (flowers), Causse (gloves), Goossens (gold and silversmith), Barrie Knitwear and the Bodin-Joyeux tannery (they make the lambskin leather for the famed quilted bags).
These special collections have gone from London to Moscow, Shanghai, Bombay and Scotland, in extravagant shows. And now the latest, the Paris-Dallas collection, has landed in Texas.
So why exactly Dallas? With Chanel, it’s always about the connection. After all, this is a house that digs deep into its history to pull out tendrils they can weave together to form a story that becomes a collection.
In this case, it was essentially a “return” to that historical connection.
In 1957, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, arrived in Dallas at the invitation of Stanley Marcus, of Neiman Marcus. She received one of Neiman Marcus’ Fashion Awards and her collection was featured in the store.
Dallas was also a place Coco had visited several times. In fact, there’s even a replica of Villa La Pausa (the mediterranean villa she built in 1927) at The Dallas Museum of Art.
The United States was a place close to her heart. When Coco returned to show her collections in Paris in 1954, she was met with lacklustre response, except from the American press who adored her.
Hence the connection and the short film directed by creative director, Karl Lagerfeld, appropriately titled The Return. The film saw Geraldine Chaplin as Coco and it was featured before the fashion show.
So there we were, at the Fair Park (this was in December just after an ice storm), which had been transformed into a drive-through cinema from the 50s complete with vintage cars, popcorn and ice-cream. Yes, we actually watched the film while sitting in a vintage car! That was quite an experience, though we couldn’t open the car door to get out, so someone had to open it for us.
Plenty of celebrities were there decked out in Chanel, of course, and Kristen Stewart (the face of the Paris-Dallas collection), Dakota Fanning, Alexa Chung and Lily Collins were among the famous faces sighted.
Then it was on to the show itself, held at the same venue, and Chanel had actually recreated a rodeo, complete with straw and benches. You almost expected cowboys and horses to come out! Instead, we got the collection.
Lagerfeld saw the collection as Old Texas and a more sophisticated version of cowboys; this was Chanel, after all. Think the Stetson, cowboy boots, fringes, chaps, denim, peasant blouses and feathers.
Despite that, there were still the classic Chanel touches – the tweed suits, pearls and the colours of black, white and beige were still seen.
There were beautiful wearable pieces, from the slouchy pants, to the leather jackets and the long skirted tweed suits. This was the work of artisans, and it showed in the gorgeous detailing and worksmanship.
Heavy blankets were fashioned into capes and coats, and there were Navajo-inspired jewellery, fringed ponchos and eagles’ wings as patterns. I particularly liked a black jacket with double buttons with a panelled skirt, and while a pale blue crop top paired with a crop cardigan and denim and suede jeans complete with matching boots and hat seemed rather over the top, it did make for a striking appearance.
There was nothing particularly new or revolutionary, it was simply a beautifully-made collection that paid homage to the Texan outback of Lagerfeld’s imagination. While some have deemed it politically-incorrect due to the feathered headdresses and Native American influences, fashion is a matter of interpretation, and one tailors a reaction to a collection from one’s own experience.
In other words, you can choose to view it positively or negatively, and that is entirely your own reaction.
The accessories are most probably the most relatable to the public. There’s never a shortage of Chanel quilted bags, pearls and costume jewellery, and there were several absolutely gorgeous pieces on display.
The night didn’t end there, Chanel threw a fabulous afterparty, where they recreated a western saloon complete with a mechanical bull (the most popular ride of the night), line-dancing lessons, a performance by British band Hot Chip and plenty of down-home food – steak, nachos and even Frito pie!
The next time you’re doing the wild west, take your cue from Chanel, and as Lagerfeld swaggered on the straw runway to take his bows post-show, there was no doubt who ruled this Texan hoedown.
Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni described the woman at Missoni as “a cool girl who’s been out all night, she’s got her boyfriend’s coat on, and is waiting for the bus around six in the morning.” In the case of today’s show, that coat would involve chevron stripes and vibrant tangerine trim.
The focus was primarily on the eyes—particularly the lashes, where “tons and tons and tons of mascara” was used from the iris to the outer corners on top and bottom to create a spidery, “haywire” effect. For an even more imperfect finish, lashes were pinched together to make them “a bit crooked.” (Some models with sparser fringe received a set of falsies for thickness, just on the outer half of the eyes.) To intensify the clumpy effect, MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack was applied from the middle outward on the upper and lower lash lines in a soft square shape, then blended with a matte, ebony-colored shadow.
“It feels like she’s done her hair herself, but not in front of a mirror,” Eugene Souleiman said of the “imbalanced” topknots. (The Missoni girl likely crafted this while she was waiting for the bus to pull up.) The style was simple enough to create: Loosely secure a ponytail with elastic to create “bagginess,” then pin in place. Since multiple models were dashing from Dolce & Gabbana via car and moped (no time to wait for public transportation), “necessity became the mother of invention,” Souleiman explained. “I love it because it’s a five-minute hairdo.”
Ava Hama and Nolan Bellavance are living out any fashion student’s dream. Upon graduating from Parsons, the latter’s thesis collection earned him the MADE for Peroni Young Designer Award, enabling him and schoolmate Hama to launch their label, Bellavance. They’ve been finding their footing over the past year (not to mention juggling all the Italian mills and manufacturers that came with the Peroni sponsorship their debut season), and things are beginning to take hold with Fall ’14. “It’s really about refocusing our DNA and putting our hand into it,” the duo said at a preview, adding that it was their first time working exclusively with New York-based factories.
Bellavance has steadily gained a following (Opening Ceremony has carried the line from the start, and Kate Foley styled the new lookbook) for its directional yet wearable takes on classic American sportswear. The latest lineup had an antiestablishment current. (Bellavance had reportedly been reading some light Foucault over the summer.) Indeed, there was a “mix of restraint and playfulness” here, as Hama put it, with a range of cool pieces such as surplus jackets and cargo culottes cut from raw twill or indigo. Also on offer were pretty dresses featuring allover pleating. (Some were printed with a chain-link pattern done in collaboration with illustrator Sonya Dissin.) Body-contouring, engineered knits, and graphic lace separates rounded out the collection that successfully showcased Bellavance’s promising vision.